- Ribes nigrum L. (Grossulariaceae) — nụ hoa (flower buds). Hai hình thức thương mại: (a) Essential oil (steam-distilled, hiếm gặp) và (b) Absolute (solvent-extracted, phổ biến hơn trên thị trường). T&Y note: unusual for an absolute to be monoterpene-rich.
- Primary hazard = skin sensitization IF OXIDIZED — driver là δ-3-carene autoxidation (15–35% EO hoặc 12.6–19% absolute). Oil tươi không oxidized ≠ sensitizer.
- Chemistry (EO): δ-3-carene 15–35% dominant + β-pinene 0.2–24% + β-phellandrene 1.6–11% + (+)-limonene 0.8–10% + terpinolene 0–9% + α-pinene 4–6%. (Absolute): β-caryophyllene 9–14% added + sabinene/p-cymene tăng cao hơn (3.9–15.4%).
- Storage critical: Dark + airtight + refrigerated + BHT antioxidant mandatory để ngăn δ-3-carene oxidation → sensitization.
- Non-phototoxic, pregnancy/breastfeeding không contraindicated (T&Y: monoterpene profile có low reproductive toxicity — β-pinene, α-pinene, sabinene, limonene đều benign). No specific dermal max — framework only.
Tổng Quan
- Danh pháp khoa học
- Ribes nigrum L.
- Họ thực vật
- Grossulariaceae
- Bộ phận dùng
- Flower buds
- Phương pháp chiết xuất
- solvent_extraction
- Màu sắc
- —
- Phân loại nốt hương
- Nốt Top
- Hương thơm
- —
- Chemotype / Cultivar
- —
Tình trạng tại Việt Nam
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Phân loại nốt
Top
Cường độ
5/5
Độ bền trên da
2–4 giờ
Họ hương
Green-fruity-sulfurous-catty (signature "cassis" / cat-pee / buchu cross) on topnote → settl...
Hương đầu (Opening)(0–15 phút)
crisp dark leaf crushed in the hand, wild berry with a feral catty shadow, cool rain on forest undergrowth, tenaciously verdant, bittersweet twilight green
Hương giữa (Heart)(15–60 phút)
Lá xanh đậm vò nát trong tay, quả mọng hoang dại phảng phất hắc nồng, mưa lạnh trên thảm lá rừng, xanh mướt dai dẳng, bóng tối ngọt ngào chập choạng
Hương nền (Drydown)(1–4 giờ)
2–4 giờ
Cường độ hương
5/5
Da khô
3/5
Da dầu/mụn
2/5
Da lão hóa
3/5
Da thường
3/5
Da nhạy cảm
2/5
Da hỗn hợp
3/5
Nhập khẩuImported
Tên gọi tại Việt Nam
Tinh dầu nụ nho đen / cassis (Blackcurrant bud)
Pha Chế & Hòa Hợp
mood-brightening / hedonic aromatic
The distinctive catty-green-fruity cassis scent profile stimulates olfactory receptors linked to the limbic system, producing reported uplift and brightening of emotional tone — the primary driver of its use in fine fragrance.
Ref: Tisserand & Young 2014, Ch.13 p.477–478
mild anti-inflammatory
β-Myrcene, documented as a principal volatile constituent of the bud fraction, modulates arachidonic acid cascade pathways and shows anti-inflammatory activity in preclinical models.
Ref: class-extrapolation from β-myrcene-rich oils; Lawrence 1989 p.234–236 for constituent identification
mild analgesic
β-Myrcene from the bud EO fraction has shown analgesic effects via opioid pathway potentiation in rodent models; effect at therapeutic dilution in humans is unconfirmed.
Ref: class-extrapolation from β-myrcene-rich oils; Lawrence 1989 p.234–236 for constituent identification
antioxidant (terpene-class)
Monoterpene hydrocarbons including α-pinene and β-phellandrene from the bud fraction contribute free-radical scavenging; distinct from polyphenol-derived antioxidant activity of berry/leaf fractions.
Ref: class-extrapolation from pinene-class monoterpene oils; Lawrence 1989 p.234–236
mild antimicrobial
Pinene-class monoterpenes disrupt bacterial membrane integrity at therapeutic concentrations; effect is class-wide and has not been validated by isolate studies on this specific absolute.
Ref: class-extrapolation from pinene-rich conifer and citrus EOs; Lawrence 1989 p.234–236
mild sedative / CNS calming
β-Myrcene, a dominant bud-fraction constituent, potentiates barbiturate sleep time in rodent models and is associated with mild CNS depressant effects at higher concentrations.
Ref: class-extrapolation from β-myrcene-rich oils (hops, lemongrass); Lawrence 1989 p.234–236
AI-summary
Traditional aromatherapy and fine-fragrance use; no RCT-grade clinical evidence located for blackcurrant bud EO or absolute specifically. Tisserand & Young 2014 (Ch.13 p.477–478) documents a framework 5% dermal cap and 'None known' hazard designation for both dermal and general use. Lawrence 1989 (p.234–236) provides chemical composition data covering both the steam-distilled EO and solvent-extracted absolute fractions. The extensive Ribes nigrum pharmacological literature — covering antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory activity — addresses berries, leaves, and seed oil, NOT the bud absolute; those findings derive from anthocyanins and polyphenols absent from the volatile bud absolute matrix. All therapeutic ratings above 1 are constituent-class extrapolations, not oil-specific evidence.
NarrativeTâm trạng: Uplifting, Stimulating
nostalgiawildnessvitalitysophisticationplayfulnessalertness
Chakra
heart
Ngũ hành
moc
| Phương pháp | Liều lượng | Ghi chú |
|---|---|---|
| Diffusion | 3–5 drops in 100 ml water | Primary recommended route. Use for mood-brightening; limit to 30–60 min sessions. Absolute may clog ultrasonic diffusers — prefer nebuliser or warm-water diffuser. |
| Personal inhalation | 1–2 drops on tissue or diffuser jewellery | Portable emotional-support use. Avoid direct skin contact at neat concentration. Do not apply undiluted under nose. |
| Topical massage | 0.5–2% in carrier oil (max 5% adult) | Blend into jojoba or sweet almond. Max 5% adult per T&Y 2014. Patch-test prior to first use. Avoid mucous membranes and broken skin. |
| Skincare formulation | 0.5–1% in finished product | Add to serums or moisturisers. Warm-blend for incorporation. Patch-test on sensitive skin. Evaluate IFRA limits for leave-on products. |
| Perfume and fragrance blending | 1–5% in alcohol or jojoba base | Primary commercial use providing the cassis accord. Blend with citrus tops and woody bases. Review IFRA guidelines per finished-product category. |
Dầu nền phù hợp
JojobaNon-greasy wax ester, comedogenic rating 2, stable, suits all skin types; does not compete with the distinctive bud scent profile.
Sweet Almond OilEmollient, mild, easily absorbed; excellent base for body massage blends featuring this absolute.
Rosehip Seed OilRich in linoleic and linolenic acids with its own antioxidant profile; complements terpene-class antioxidant potential for mature or dry skin applications.
Argan OilHigh oleic and linoleic acid profile with luxurious feel; appropriate for fine-fragrance-grade topical blends where the cassis accord is centred.
Kết hợp tốt với
GreenFloralCitrusEarthySpicy
Blend kinh điển
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[Tisserand & Young] Ch.13 p.477–478 (Blackcurrant bud)
[Lawrence, B. M.] 1987* p.234–236 (EO) + p.235 (absolute) [via B216]
An Toàn
Giới hạn da tối đa
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Giới hạn IFRA
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Thai kỳ & Cho con bú
Tam cá nguyệt 1Unknown
Tam cá nguyệt 2Unknown
Tam cá nguyệt 3Unknown
Giới hạn độ tuổi
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Bảo quản
Bảo quản nơi tối, mát