- Abelmoschus moschatus Medik. (syn. Hibiscus abelmoschus L.), Malvaceae. Source: seeds; steam distillation OR solvent extraction (CO₂ or hexane). "Ambrette / Musk mallow / Hạt xạ hương thực vật". Plant-derived musk substitute for animal musk (from Moschus moschiferus deer, now CITES Appendix I restricted). One of the most expensive botanical oils — ~$8,000–15,000/kg for authentic steam-distilled seed oil.
- Chemistry (Kraft 2000 — via B216): (E,E)-Farnesyl acetate 30.0–65.3% + (Z)-5-Tetradecen-14-olide (Ambrettolide — macrocyclic musk) 8.0–23.0% + (E)-β-Farnesene 0.1–6.4% + Farnesol 0.3–5.9% + Ambrettolic acid trace–2.3% + Decyl acetate tr–2.0% + Dodecyl acetate tr–1.5%. Farnesyl acetate + macrocyclic-lactone dual-dominant.
- Hazards: Skin sensitization (low-risk). Contraindications: None known. Max dermal: No T&Y numeric cap (low-risk profile); framework 3–5%. Photoallergy risk: LOW-MODERATE (some farnesol + farnesyl acetate esters have reported mild photoallergy signals).
- Ambrettolide-macrocyclic-musk rail (UNIQUE): Ambrettolide is a 15-carbon macrocyclic lactone (ω-6 lactone of 5-tetradecenoic acid) — one of the few natural plant sources of musk-class macrocyclic lactones. Commercially valuable as natural-alternative to synthetic musks (Galaxolide, Tonalide). Olfactively: warm, velvety, animalic-soft, fixative.
- High-value-adulteration rail: Ambrette is heavily adulterated due to price. Common adulterants: synthetic ambrettolide (nature-identical macrocyclic musk synthesis), synthetic farnesyl acetate, macrocyclic nitromusks (banned), neutral-carrier dilution with fractional ambrette. Authentic CoA + isotope-ratio-MS recommended for sourcing. "Ambrette absolute" (solvent extraction) and "Ambrette CO₂" (supercritical CO₂ extraction) are distinct commercial products with slightly different profiles.
Tổng Quan
- Danh pháp khoa học
- Abelmoschus moschatus Medik.
- Họ thực vật
- Malvaceae
- Bộ phận dùng
- —
- Phương pháp chiết xuất
- steam_distillation_or_solvent_extraction
- Màu sắc
- —
- Phân loại nốt hương
- Nốt Middle/Base
- Hương thơm
- —
- Chemotype / Cultivar
- —
Tình trạng tại Việt Nam
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Phân loại nốt
Middle-Base
Cường độ
3/5
Độ bền trên da
2–4 giờ
Họ hương
Musk
Hương đầu (Opening)(0–15 phút)
Warm velvet musk, skin-close and softly animalic, ambery-floral depth, dreamy powdery bloom, lingering and enveloping
Hương giữa (Heart)(15–60 phút)
Xạ hương nhung ấm áp gần da, hương da thịt êm dịu thanh sạch, chiều sâu hổ phách nhẹ nhàng, phấn mộng mơ mượt mà, vấn vít lâu tan
Hương nền (Drydown)(1–4 giờ)
2–4 giờ
Cường độ hương
3/5
Da khô
5/5
Da dầu/mụn
2/5
Da lão hóa
5/5
Da thường
4/5
Da nhạy cảm
2/5
Da hỗn hợp
3/5
Nhập khẩuImported
Tên gọi tại Việt Nam
Tinh dầu Hạt xạ hương thực vật (Ambrette)
Pha Chế & Hòa Hợp
Anxiolytic / nervine calming
Macrocyclic musk lactones (ambrettolide) and farnesyl esters activate olfactory-limbic pathways; traditionally employed to ease nervous tension and psychological stress.
Ref: Tisserand & Young 2014, Ch.13 p.438 (traditional use acknowledgment)
Aphrodisiac (olfactory / sensory)
Musky macrolides structurally analogous to animal musk are associated with erotic olfactory signalling; ambrette is the principal botanical surrogate for deer musk.
Ref: CITES Appendix I context (Moschus moschiferus substitute); Tisserand & Young 2014, Ch.13 p.438
Skin conditioning / emollient
Farnesyl acetate and farnesol provide long-chain isoprenoid emollients that support epidermal barrier function and impart a softening effect on the stratum corneum.
Ref: Opdyke 1975 (non-irritating/non-sensitizing 4%/25 volunteers); Ch.14 Farnesol profile via B216
Antifungal
Farnesol inhibits Candida spp. biofilm formation and morphological switching from yeast to hyphal form at sub-MIC concentrations, a property attributed to its sesquiterpene alcohol class.
Ref: class-extrapolation from farnesol; Ch.14 Farnesol profile via B216
Anti-inflammatory (mild)
Farnesol-class sesquiterpene alcohols modulate NF-κB signalling and reduce prostaglandin synthesis at pharmacologically relevant concentrations in vitro.
Ref: class-extrapolation from farnesol; Ch.14 Farnesol profile via B216
AI-summary
Traditional aromatherapy and perfumery use; no RCT-grade clinical evidence for therapeutic efficacy has been located. The strongest available data is Opdyke (1975), which tested ambrette tincture at 4% in 25 human volunteers and found it non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-phototoxic, with acute oral LD50 (rat) >5 g/kg and dermal LD50 (rabbit) >5 g/kg — establishing a wide safety margin at standard use concentrations. Pharmacological evidence is largely constituent-level: farnesol, confirmed in ambrette seed oil by Kraft (2000) GC analysis, has documented antifungal and skin-conditioning activity in the literature. No controlled clinical trials specific to ambrette EO therapeutic efficacy were identified in the available citation set.
NarrativeTâm trạng: Calming, Grounding
sensualityintimacyserenitycomfortconfidencetenderness
Chakra
sacral
Ngũ hành
thuy
| Phương pháp | Liều lượng | Ghi chú |
|---|---|---|
| Diffusion | 2-3 drops in 100 ml water | Creates a warm, musky-floral ambiance; blend with sandalwood or rose for enhanced nervine effect; limit to 60-minute sessions. |
| Topical massage | 0.5-2% in carrier oil (max 5% adult) | Dilute in jojoba or argan; suitable for full-body relaxation; patch test advised — farnesol is an EU 26-allergen. |
| Skincare blend | 0.5-1% in facial serum or cream | For dry and mature skin; EU Cosmetic Reg. 1223/2009 requires farnesol disclosure in leave-on products >0.001%; avoid on sensitized or eczematous skin. |
| Personal perfume | 1-5% in jojoba or perfumer's alcohol | Used as a natural musk fixative; anchors floral and woody accords; longest olfactory exposure method for nervine benefit. |
| Personal inhaler | 2-3 drops on cotton wick | Brief inhalation for immediate calming effect; limit to 3-5 inhalations per session; do not use near infants. |
Dầu nền phù hợp
Jojoba waxLiquid wax with indefinite shelf life; neutral odour allows ambrette's musk to express cleanly; ideal for leave-on and perfume-fixative applications.
Argan oilHigh oleic/linoleic profile with antioxidant tocopherols; complements ambrette's farnesyl esters for dry and mature skin formulations.
Fractionated coconut oilUltra-light, odourless, fast-absorbing; preferred for massage blends requiring a non-greasy finish.
Rosehip seed oilTrans-retinoic acid and linoleic content provide anti-aging synergy with ambrette's skin-conditioning properties for mature skin use.
Kết hợp tốt với
FloralWoodyResinousSpicyCitrus
Blend kinh điển
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—
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[Tisserand & Young] Ch.13 p.438
[Kraft] ambrette seed oil GC composition + ambrettolide chemistry [via B216]
[Opdyke] ambrette tincture 4%/25 volunteers non-irritating/non-sensitizing/non-phototoxic; LD50 rat >5 g/kg; dermal rabbit >5 g/kg [via B216]
[Ch.14 Farnesol profile] EU 26-allergen listing [via B216]
[EU Cosmetic Reg. 1223/2009] farnesol disclosure threshold
[CITES Appendix I] Moschus moschiferus deer musk (context for ambrette as substitute)
An Toàn
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Thai kỳ & Cho con bú
Tam cá nguyệt 1Unknown
Tam cá nguyệt 2Unknown
Tam cá nguyệt 3Unknown
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